हमने जिसपा की खूबसूरत घाटी मे बस कदम ही रखा था और पहोचते ही ठिकाना ढूंढ़ने की तलाश मे यहाँ वहा भटकने लगे। दोपहर के करीब 2.30 बज रहे थे और धुप की किरणे मुझे सुई की तरह तेज़ चुभ रही थी। हम कुछ क्षण के लिए बस आपस मे विचार विमर्श करने रुके ही थे के सामने caravan से एक पतला दुबला सा लम्बे कद का युवक हमारी मदद करने के लिए बहार आया। उसके बाल कंधे तक लम्बे और रुख-सूख से गए थे , चेहरा भी ठण्ड के चलते सुख सा रहा था। ऐसा व्यतीत होता था जैसे पानी से उसकी कुछ ख़ास बनती नहीं हो । मेरी नजर caravan के सामने एक लकड़ी के घर पे पड़ी जिसपे टैटू पार्लर का बोर्ड लगा हुआ था। इतनी एकांत वाली जगह पे जहा घर उंगलियों पे गिने जा सकते थे वहा यह दृश्य मन मे कई सवाल पैदा कर ही देगा। “क्या यह पार्लर ऐसी जगह पे चलता भी है?” “और अगर हा तो ठण्ड मे जब ये इलाका पूरी तरह बंद होता है, तब इनकी आमदनी का क्या?” “उन्होंने आखिर इतनी हिम्मत कर कैसे इतना बड़ा कदम उठाया?” मेरा मन बच्चे की तरह बस उनकी कहानियाँ सुनने के लिए विचलित हो उठा। बस उसी पल मानो मेरी मन की बात पढ़ तुरंत ही उसने अपने घर बुलाया । इस एक मंजिले घर मे तीन जने मिल कर रह रहे थे। कमरा कुछ ख़ास बड़ा नहीं था पर तीन जनो के लिए काफी था। घर काफी तिथल पीथल हो रखा था। टेबल पर दारु की बोतल, बीड़ी और सिगरेट बिखरी पड़ी थी, सामने दो कुत्ते दोपहर की नींद मार रहे थे और दीवारे paintings से भरी हुई थी। उसकी girlfriend ने हमें देख बड़ी चौड़ी मुस्कुराहट के साथ स्वागत किया और तुरंत ही घर जचाने लगी। इत्मीनाम से बैठकर हमने कुछ सिगरेट और बीड़ी पर घंटो चर्चा की। बातो से पता पड़ा की युवक IIT passout था और मुंबई मे chemical enggineer था और उसकी girlfriend भी मुंबई मे ही काम करती थी। मानो एक दूसरे से हमारा कितना गहरा सम्बन्ध हो और कई साल बाद मिल रहे हो। हमने कला, ज़िन्दगी, अध्यात्म, राजनीती, इत्यादि पे काफी चर्चा की। हम सब ने अपनी ज़िन्दगी मे आयी चुनौतीयों और उससे किस तरह सामना किया इस पर भी दिल खोल कर बाते की। सूरज भी अब ढलने को था पर बातो का कोई अंत नहीं। मेरे लिए तो यह सब एक सपने जैसा था ।
पर इस सपने का भी अंत होना तय था। सफर की यही ख़ूबसूरती है। सभी को पता है के इसके आगे शायद ही कभी मुलाक़ात हो। इसलिए सब एक दूसरे से विनम्रता से पेश आते है। विनम्रता मे इतनी ताकत है के यह ऊँच-नींच, सही -गलत का भेदभाव खत्म कर हमे एक दूसरे को बेहतर समझने मे मदद करता है और इसी दौरान हम बहोत कुछ सीख भी जाते है।
Somewhere between the excel sheets and the futile meetings, my thoughts had already resigned from the monotony. My heart was yearning for yet another journey. A journey that could once again make this restless soul meet the infinite ocean of silence!
The first view of the Himalayas from the train. Sigh!
A trip to the Himalayas was soon made to make the ends meet. The trip was well planned with the aim to witness the snow and experience the life in the Himalayas in the winter. I had made up my mind to travel solo to Srinagar, Pahalgam, and Gulmarg. I embarked on my journey on 9th March 2017 when I received a message from my friend, (who was already aware of my travel plans) that he too is going to join me from Delhi. I learned that it was snowing heavily in the mountains for a few days and I had kept my fingers crossed. “Let it snow!” I prayed to God. The snowfall had an immediate impact on the lower regions of Punjab and Haryana. As the train whizzed past the green fields of the plain, the cool breeze and the drizzles gave the hint of harsh weather up in the mountains. It was already evening when we reached Udhampur from where we had to hire a taxi for Srinagar. Soon, we were acknowledged that all the roads up to Srinagar, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam were closed due to heavy snowfall and that the taxi was only going up to Patnitop. And there I was, left again in the dilemma of covering maximum places within the confined time. In such perplexed states, I prefer to give up to my heart to show the way and enjoy whatever comes on my plate, thus giving rise to the series of the impromptu journey. (I ended up visiting Patnitop, Dalhousie, Kalatop, Khajjiar, and Chamba instead.)
The taxi halted directly at one of the guest houses in Patnitop. It was pitch dark when we arrived. The driver informed us that there was no electricity in the area from last 2 days due to heavy snowfall. Since it was difficult to wander around in search of a cheap homestay in the dark and bone-rattling cold, we settled with the first guest house sealing the deal for Rs.800 a night for two people.
The night grew harsh and the cold was taking the toll over our enthusiasm. Even the thick jackets and gloves failed to provide the warmth we needed. My friend briskly opened up a bottle of rum to get our body heated up. It somehow helped us to bravely stand in the balcony. It was snowing. I lay my hands out to touch and feel the tiny little snowflakes. As it fell on my hand it vanished away quickly, like magic that exceeded my grasp. The night had made us oblivious to the beauty around us. Soon we hit the bed after having dinner. Tucked inside many layers of damp blankets, lying on the moist bed and the pillows, it was very difficult to fall asleep. The only thing that made me sleep was dreaming about how beautiful my morning would be!
The next morning, I woke up at 6 without an alarm (usually, I don’t wake up to the alarm clock. My mother acts as my only alarm who forces me to get out of bed.) and immediately got out of the bed to see the mountains and lo! It was still snowing. I kept gazing at everything my eyes could behold, appreciating this piece of art. The roads, the houses, the trees, and the cars looked like toys beautifully decorated with the sheet of ice. Everything was covered in white, tinted with the different shade of colors of the houses, vehicles and the trees. Didn’t we imagine a heaven where everything is white in colour? This was it! Few vehicles that passed by had sketched the road out of the fresh snow that separated the main road from the yard of our guest house. The dogs were lying under the roof, comfortably curled up to keep themselves warm. The snowflakes were gently falling on the leaves of deodars and the dried twigs and branches of the other trees, carefully filling the void (inside me). As if God had meticulously painted the canvas of earth with his own hands! The town was still in deep slumber. The raven sitting on the tree was the only one accompanying me. The occasional cawing of the raven and whispers of the snowflakes falling on the earth was like relaxing music to my ears. I immediately wore my boots and rushed downstairs to play in the snow. My happiness knew no bounds! Read:Kalga: A hamlet from a fairytale
The owner of the guest house woke up to my activities. He was smiling looking at me knowing that I was enjoying the snow.
“Itni thand me baraf se khel rahe ho? “, he asked me rubbing his hands and blowing his palms simultaneously and smiling at me gently. His smile was telling about the hardships they go through in such harsh conditions. But he was well aware that snow is one of the main reasons tourists flock up to his hometown. He told me how lucky I was to witness such heavy snowfall in March. Read:Tosh in monsoon
My friend experiencing the pain it takes to shovel the accumulated snow.
With running nose, numb toes and fingers almost frozen, carrying warmth in our heart, we hiked and explored a lot of places during our 3 days sojourn. Read:Kheerganga: Trek to the mystical land
On the way to Nag temple.
Sanasar Garden.
From talking to the local people and the hallucinatory views, devouring rajma chawal at just Rs.30 at Jammu station to eating patisa at prem sweets in Kud and having dal makhani at local dhaba where the butter exceeded the quantity of the dal, it is experiences like these that reaffirm my love for travelling. The experience of the unknown and the series of serendipitous moments take me to a parallel universe where it is hard to distinguish between the dreams and the reality. Sometimes the reality is way more beautiful than anything I have ever dreamt of. I hope I get lost like this more often where my dreams meet the reality and the reality of my life turns into a beautiful dream.
I am also thankful, that I am able to turn my dreams into reality (at least to some extent).
A clear day on the last day of our stay. Made me remember one of the lines from the Passenger’s song (Let her go)- ” We only miss the sun when it starts to snow”
This innocent, childlike heart knows no barriers and flies to that beautiful place again, where I had left it. And in return, the mountains have stayed with me forever. I carry this little piece of heaven with me, everywhere I go. I feel the same cold which comes in the form of goosebumps, even now, as I pen down my experience from the closed chambers of my office.
The last rays of the sun trying unsuccessfully to pierce through the clouds.
There is magic everywhere waiting to be disclosed. I can see it- The pie in the sky!
A sleeping hamlet lost in its own world with very few tourists, this place is a land of flowers! The apple orchards, white and purple colored flowers were in abundance that lit the whole village just like the string of tiny bulbs lights up a place during festivals.
“I see trees of green, red roses too; I see them bloom for me and you. And I think to myself, what a wonderful world!”
On my way to Kalga.
The first view of the village.
Apple orchard- Plucking apples are strictly prohibited here.
In contrary to the fewer tourists, I could spot multiple guest houses throughout the village. Apparently, most of the villagers have converted their home into a guest house. So, there are plenty of guest houses that gives the feeling of staying in a typical Himachali house made up of woods, painted in vibrant colors with attractive names that perfectly blends with the hippie vibes of this valley.
Surrounded by the apple orchards- The Apple Cottage.
We decided to walk to the far end of the village and finally found the place to stay. Tucked amidst apple orchards, tall shrubs and wildflowers, this house popped straight out of a fairytale!
Passing through the valley of flowers, we reach our guest house.
Guest house- Stoned Place
Weed, apples, and flowers
This place literally looked stoned with no one to be seen around. After a while, we could spot a café on the ground floor where a guy was getting high, ready to light up an another chillum. He somehow managed to show us the rooms and even before we could negotiate for the deal we were humbly invited in the café to smoke hash. The deal was finally sealed for Rs.400/night for 4 people. However, I would not recommend this place for stay as the food was not good. Can’t blame the guy as he was high all day. You may alsolike: A solo trip that changed me forever!
And then, there were dogs who accompanied us throughout our stay in Kalga.
A walk in the woods.
Just like a cartoon character’s eyes roll in a dollar sign looking at the money!
After wandering through the length and breadth of the village and spending a comfortable night in Kalga, we embarked on a journey to Kheerganga the next day. Read:Mythological importance of Kheerganga How to reach?
Kalga is approx. 45mins hike from Barshaini. Take a right from the hydroelectric power dam in Barshaini to reach here. Refer to FAQ in below link to learn how to reach Barshaini. Kheerganga: Trek to the mystical land Where to stay?
There are plenty of options available with charges starting from Rs.200/night. What time to visit?
Sweating, panting and thirsty, with drizzling rain, we began our climb to a beautiful village; Tosh and suddenly the cloud disappears, the sun shines bright with a view of the village far away and everyone halts. “Look, look, a rainbow !”
And the little child in me aroused making me realize, once again, how wonderful it is to find joy even in the simplest form. We began clicking pictures and the smile on my face was in no mood to fade away!
Can you spot one more rainbow in the picture? It was a double rainbow!
How could I not come back to the place that taught me to live! After all, I had sworn to myself to return during monsoon. Read to know more about my previous trip-A solo trip that changed me forever! It was time to explore Parvati valley more. This time, I had managed to convince 3 of my friends to join me. The view was totally different in monsoon. The bus journey up to Barshaini was telling a different story this time.
The bus halted on the main road past Manikaran for few minutes while waiting for more passengers to arrive and we got off the bus to wander around. Time just stops here in the mountains. Nobody is in hurry!
The mountains that were covered in snow during my last visit had turned totally green and the fresh air with the cool breeze brought a sense of freedom along with it.
Barshaini.
The confluence of Tosh and Parvati river.
An hour of a hike from Barshaini leads up to the Tosh village.
So much greenery that it could hurt one’s eyes! The marijuana plants, various flowers, and fruits were in full bloom. The smell of marijuana was filled in the air making us high already! I immediately plucked an apple to have a real taste of organic fruit which I may never experience in cities and boy, was it delicious!
Happy souls!
That’s Pulga village, as seen while hiking to Tosh.
Tosh.
Staring at the mountains, watching clouds hovering over the peaks, listening to waterfall in the vicinity, taking a stroll around the village and clicking pictures is how we killed our time in Tosh. (That can be summed up as doing absolutely nothing. Ha Ha!)
I had my head in the clouds- Literally!
View from our room.
You and I… in this beautiful world… green grass, blue sky!
After relaxing for 2 days, our zeal to explore more took us to a village named Kalga. How to get there?
Tosh is 3 km hike from Barshaini or one can also reach via taxi that leads up to Tosh.
There are plenty of options available to stay at Tosh. My personal favorite is Olive Garden rest house. They charged Rs.400/ night for 4 people. Best time to visit?
Any time of the year is favorable to visit this place. However, I would suggest avoiding visiting here in summer as the place is crowded making the rates soar high. Places to visit in Tosh?
There is nothing really much to do in Tosh except appreciating the beauty around. However one can further hike up to Kutla village that is 3kms from Tosh.
According to the localites, it was the time when Lord Shiva asked their son Karthikey and Ganesh to travel around the world. Lord Ganesh thinking that the whole world lies at His parent’s feet, He circumferenced around them (Shiva and Parvati), while Lord Karthikey embarked on His journey of the world tour. Impressed by Ganesha’s wit, Shiva made him the king. Years after Karthikey returned home, He saw that Ganesh was made the king and was enjoying all the powers and facilities He had expected being an elder brother.
Frustrated and angry, He went to the cave (which is in Kheerganga) for deep meditation.
Cave where lord Karthikey meditated.
Later, Shiva and Parvati came here to take Karthikey home. Out of love for his son, Goddess Parvati made the kheer (rice pudding) flow from the mountain (kheer-ki-ganga which literally translates to the river of rice pudding). Later lord Parshuram, on realizing the oncoming of kalyug and that there could be a fight amongst people, stopped the kheer and what remained is the hot water.
Even now, one can see the white rubber-like particles (malai) along with the hot flowing water. The water remains boiling hot throughout the year and is said to be rich in natural minerals and can cure stomach related disorders. Lord Shiva liked this place so much that he decided to stay here. It is said that Lord Shiva himself meditated here for thousands of years.
Painting on the temple wall depicting their stay in Kheerganga.
Lush green forest, tall pine and deodar trees, waterfalls, snowcapped peaks, and view so beautiful that it melted my heart. The tall dreadful mountains crushed my ego, making me realize how small I am in front of His creation and here I was, speechless and left only with love. Mountain does teach one to be humble!
Kheerganga is a mystical land, apart from being famous amongst hippies and stoners for quality hash. It is said that lord Shiva meditated here for more than thousand years. Over the years, this place has become more commercialized than ever. Breathtaking views, greenery all around with open meadows attracts many youngsters for trekking and spending a laid back time beating the summer heat of the plains.
Enroute Kheerganga.
We started our trek from Kalga village and descended through the Rudranag and Nakthan village. The trek was totally worth the pain as the journey to Kheerganga is as beautiful as the summit itself. One crosses many small and large waterfalls and the wooden bridges. The route through Kalga village takes you through the dense jungle of tall pine and deodar trees whereas as the route through Rudranag and Nakthan village is quite open giving a clear view of peaks on both the ends. It took us 4 hrs to reach the summit. All tiredness and fatigue were taken care by the hot water spring which is the best part of the whole trek. Read: Tosh in monsoon
Now, let me take you through both the routes and let the photographs do the talking. Route 1:Kalga Village
You always have a company here.
On the right with the chairs and tables is the Waterfall cafe.
Kheerganga:
Kheerganga, 2900m above sea level.
Dharamshala- The ashram where we stayed.
Hot water spring.
It was raining continuously the day we arrived here due to which the peaks weren’t clearly visible and I was silently praying that the weather gets clear the next day and my prayers were answered. A bright sunny day making the meadows of Kheerganga come alive with the clear view of peaks in front.
View from our room.
Living young, wild and free!
Route 2: Nakthan and Rudranag village.
Parvati river.
Rudranag village.
This waterfall is considered sacred as it resembles the shape of a serpent (Nag) and is often associated with the snake of lord Shiva (Rudra). Hence, the name of the village: Rudranag.
A typical Himachali house in Nakthan made up of woods and stones.
How to get there?
Barshaini is the base village for Kheerganga. It is approx.15 km trek from Barshaini. One may catch HRTC (local state transport) bus or Volvo bus from Kashmiri gate, Delhi to Bhuntar (HRTC bus costs Rs 350-400 while a comfortable Volvo bus costs Rs.1000-1200). Change the bus from Bhuntar to Barshaini. It takes approx. 12 hrs to reach Bhuntar and 3 hrs further up till Barshaini. One can opt either of the routes mentioned above. We personally chose to ascend via Kalga village and descended through Nakthan and Rudranag village. What time to visit?
This route is open from May- November and is difficult to reach in rest of the year due to the snowfall. I would personally recommend visiting this place post monsoon i.e., September-November as it is less crowded as compared to the summers. Where to stay?
Plenty of options are available at the top. The best and the cheapest place to stay is Dharamshala ashram which costs Rs.150/person for a night including meals. Please note that the non-veg food and drinks are not allowed in the ashram. Other stay options may cost Rs 400-600/night. Also, one may hire a tent or carry his own. Than Baba’s is one of the many cafes that provide facilities for food/ stay as per one’s wish. Can this trek be completed in a single day?
Yes. That depends upon the physical fitness of a person. One can start for this trek in the early morning and return by the evening. It hardly takes 2-2.5 hrs while returning. But make sure to return before the dark as there are Himalayan bears in the jungle. Can this trek be done alone?
Absolutely Yes! There is no need to hire a guide for this trek. The most common route is via Nakthan and Rudranag and the trails are very well marked up to the top. Trekking via Kalga is also very well achievable. The trails from Kalga are marked up to the waterfall cafe with sign boards and after that, both routes merge at the common point. If one doesn’t try to get off the trail and opt for short cuts, one can easily complete this trek through both the routes. You may also hire a guide from Barshaini near the hydropower dam which may charge Rs. 800-1000 for one way. Guidelines :
There is no ATM in Barshaini. One must carry enough cash before hand. You can withdraw money from ATM in Bhuntar or further in Kasol (it is midway to Barshaini).
Food is costly, although there are a variety of options available in the cafes. A veg thali may cost you Rs.120-150.
Carry warm clothes as the weather remains cool throughout the year.
Do not carry a heavy backpack. You can keep your bags in Barshaini. The rooms hardly cost Rs.300-400. For solo/budget travelers, you can visit Prem Cafe in Barshaini near the bus stand and request Meena Talwar (cafe owner) or her mother to keep your bag safely in their cafe for a day or two. They are very helpful and kind hearted. Do not forget to have some light snacks or meal in the cafe as an obeisance. (Shhh!)
The way to Kheerganga further leads up to Pin Parvati which is the highest point of this trek and is a very difficult one. However, one may further trek up to Tunda Bhuj (10kms from Kheerganga), if interested.
Respect nature. Do not litter. Dispose of the wastes properly.
Total cost may vary from Rs. 4000- 5000/ person for 2-3 days.
Two years since I had stepped into the corporate world, I was working with all the enthusiasm to achieve something big. Promotion, position, salary and daily work pressure kept me engrossed in the materialistic world. As the time passed by, I realized that I am not loving my life. I am not working hard enough to achieve those goals. The reality was, it was a goal that was set because most of the people around had the same goal. Yes, I was part of the crowd. Amongst the flock of sheep, that moves in the same direction (instructed since our childhood). I began to analyze things. ” Why don’t I work hard enough to achieve the goals I set? “, I asked myself. “Why do I feel the pressure of handling new work that is assigned to me? Why don’t I take it as a challenge to learn something new? ” “Why is it that many of my co-workers are smarter, quick learner and are able to handle things well?” Most of the questions had the same answer, “I do not love what I do”. And the fact that I could not find a way pissed me more. “Maybe this is what life is. Anyways I am not good at anything so why cry to escape from here?”
I began to lose my self-worth and became even more depressed when my girlfriend broke up. Now, I hated myself even more. Working aimlessly for 9 hrs, travelling for 4hrs (to and fro) and partying hard with the fractional salary that I earned to forget my weaknesses and inability to overcome sorrows was a routine now.
Devastated, I thought of escaping from the routine and travel alone for some time. However, since I did not have the courage to travel solo, I asked many friends to join me. But, maybe even God wanted that I follow my own instincts and create my own way. No one joined me for their own reasons.
One thing led to another
I remembered how one of my friends had been to Kasol and Tosh and was describing its beauty. I had now decided that I would go there no matter what! The only thing that I understood from the itinerary provided by him was to catch a bus to Bhuntar from Delhi and then from Bhuntar to Kasol. “Now what? No warm clothes to wear (being a Mumbaikar, I had never experienced the cold weather of the north. Tees and shirts are enough to bear the Mumbai’s cold). What if I lost my way while trekking? What if I get stuck in the middle of nowhere? It snows there during winter. Would I be able to survive the cold? How do I manage my money? How would I bear my expenses? How much money shall I carry?”
This was the first time when I was firm with my decision and confident that I’ll make it anyway. Every negative question brought a smile to my face, “this is interesting!”, I whispered to myself while doing introspection. After all, the tension had broken the string. I had nothing to lose and I was no more afraid of my fears. In fact, I wanted to face it.
One fine morning, my dad asked me if I could attend my cousin’s marriage in Dehradun. It was an important function to attend but no one from my family could manage to attend it. I happily agreed to attend the function and convinced dad that I will be going there for a week.
So my father took care of the train tickets. I now started borrowing winter clothes from my friends (Gloves, sweater, windcheater and even a bag).
For a change
1st December 2015– For the first time, I was traveling alone. I had never been to Himachal before. I didn’t inform my parents that I would be going to Himachal after attending the function. My salary had been credited to my account. With 8k in my account, I was all set for a life-changing journey. I never cared to even see the pictures/ read the blogs. All I knew that I wanted to travel, to be in the mountains, alone. Walk, climb or sit by the riverside, anything! I would do anything that first crossed my mind.
2nd December 2015 – I reached Dehradun at 9.30pm only to see my cousin waiting for me outside the station. My brother took me for a long drive before heading home. We had a long chat about our lifestyles and many more. With Pink Floyd’s “Another brick in the wall” playing, my cousin was now driving the car at about 80kms/hr asked me, “Kaisa lag raha hai Dehradun, maza aa raha hai?” (Translation– ” Did you like Dehradun? Are you having fun?”)
Me- ” ha bhai, bahot maza aa raha hai”(Translation– “Of course! I am enjoying to the fullest.”)
Cousin – “Welcome to Dehradun Broooo!!”, he exclaimed speeding up the car even more (as filmy as it can get). Listening every word of the lyrics closely which was helping me to connect the dots, I was for the first time experiencing freedom. Freedom to do anything I want!
” WE DON’T NEED NO EDUCATION
WE DON’T NEED NO THOUGHT CONTROL “
3rd December 2015 – The day was well spent watching the rituals, talking to relatives and cousins. Later that night we had a bachelor’s party where we partied hard and even sung songs in chorus. Oh, that feeling of bondage and love with the bonfire in the middle filled the air with joy and happiness. I had sensed the serendipity coming my way. After attending the marriage, I left for Bhuntar on the evening of 5th December. Travelling for 15 hrs in the local bus with the temperature dropped well below 3 degrees was very exhausting.
Escape from reality?
6th December – It was 10 am in the morning. I had reached Kasol. Had a quick breakfast at nearby dhaba and was clueless what to do next. I couldn’t help myself but engage in a conversation with a hippie sitting on the adjacent table. (It was hard to come out of my comfort zone and talk to a stranger. Yes, you can call me an introvert). On asking about places to visit he advised me to trek to Rasol/Rashol. Without even having a second thought, I started my trek.
I was absolutely stunned by the view and the scenic beauty on the way. As if the views popped out of the sketch I used to make in my childhood days. Tall, snow-capped mountains and the river flowing by. I thanked God every time I witnessed such beauty. As if I became young again! Just like a child I was smiling, singing songs and didn’t care about anything. The noise of the Parvati river flowing was loud, it’s color, as blue as the sky, the pine trees so tall, the jungle so peaceful. I started clicking pictures and wanted to capture everything that I witnessed. I would look at the tall mountains, the tall trees with head high up almost touching my back and exclaiming loudly, “Wooow!” I would play a little with the mountain kids I met on my way, ask the locals to guide me on my way to Rasol. Few came out of their house asking me “maal fukte ho kya?” (Translation– ” Do you smoke stuff?”)
Parvati River, Kasol.
Bridge, Kasol
Chalal Village
Primary School, Chalal
Apple Orchards in Winter
Lost in their own world
After trekking for about an hour, that feeling of loneliness gulped me. Frantic with my decision to trek alone, I decided to take a break and sat down on the rock. I began contemplating. “Is it worth to trek alone? What if I am lost? There is no one on the way to guide me. Maybe I should go back to Chalal (base village) and spend the night there”. Out of nowhere, my thoughts were interrupted by a dog. I was never a pet lover and not even once in my life (not that I remember), I had even patted a dog. He sat beside me and since I had nothing much to do I started playing with him. In no time, we became good friends.
Selfie with my new friend. More photogenic than I am.
Later my instincts just told me to follow the way. My fear vanished as I now had a dog’s company. He was furry, as white as the cloud and hence I named him “Badal”. With a bag weighing more than 10kgs on my back and a bag of blanket in my one hand, I began my trek along with Badal. I would even talk to him sometimes and the best part was no one was there to judge me. Running ahead, he showed me the way and boosted my confidence to trek.
When I became too tired, Badal would sit down and wait for me. And when he noticed I am going to rest longer, he would just stay lay down.
I later realized that it was a difficult task to carry such a heavy bag along with large blanket in one hand. I was exhausted! I took a break at regular intervals and sometimes for a long time. After completing more than half a journey, I found difficult to catch up with my breath and almost gave up until a villager helped me carry my bag up till Rasol. Himachalis are indeed very genuine and helpful people. Many shocked by watching me trek alone, I was interrogated many times, “Mumbai se aaye ho? Itne dur se? Kya milta hai pahado pe aane se? “( Translation– “Why did you come here from a faraway city leaving all your comforts? What do you seek here in the mountains?”) I just smiled at them as I found it difficult to summarize my answer in just a statement. How I wish I could explain them the joy I was witnessing within!
And when I turned back to see the view!
On my way to Rasol.
It took me about 5 hrs to reach the top and here I was, finally! I dropped my bag to see how far I’ve come. The sun was gradually setting. My legs were almost numb. But the view made me forget everything. In the vicinity, a hippie dressed like Dumbledore caught my attention. He had long hair and beard, wearing a full green colored gown with a conical cap and round specs, beating hemp grass with a hammer. Every beat with the hammer echoed. “Ohh, mujhe maaf karna me shayad jyada aawaz kar raha hu” (Translation–“Pardon me for making so much noise”). Such was the silence there. So much that I felt I have become deaf. The smile on my face almost reached my ears giving me goosebumps. “Hello, may I know what are you doing with this dried grass?”, I asked him. “Hum isse rassi banayenge”(Translation– ” I will make a rope out of it”). I was speechless listening to his fluent Hindi.
Is this a fantasy land or what!!?? Rasol or Rashol (approx. 3000m above sea level).
I spent the night at Dola’s cafe and made many friends there. All were from different parts of the country coming in Kasol almost every year for the love of hash. I stayed in a room with 3 more people costing only Rs.300 for 4 people. The rest of the day was spent sitting by the bonfire, talking and knowing each other and listening to psytrance.
The night was so chilling that fire seemed to be the most important discovery by mankind.
Room with just the basic amenities.
7th December– I woke up early in the morning to see the sunrise, sitting with a cup of tea, facing the sun along with Badal. No routines to follow, no one here to judge me. I was so much at peace. I now informed my parents that I am travelling alone in Himachal and that I am safe. Yes, there was a network, the internet, electricity in the village and western toilets at an altitude of 10,000 feet (approx. 3000m) above sea level. Also, a variety of foods were available right from various snacks, Israeli food, Chinese, veg, and non-veg thali.
Sunrise in Rasol.
Morning chai with a view.
Dola’s cafe
As the day progresses.
It was almost 5 in the evening when I descended to Kasol. The trek was tiring and I remembered my sedentary habits that caused all the pain (severe cramps had made my legs stiff, so much that I could not even climb the bus steps).
I’m not a racist, but I love Himalayan dogs more.
I decided to spend a night in Manikaran and take a bath in hot water spring. The bath relaxed my muscles whereas the langar food was divine!
Manikaran
8th December– I headed to Tosh after having a light breakfast at Prem cafe in Barshaini. The cafe owner, Meena Talwar is kind-hearted and would welcome all the guests with a broad smile. She allowed me to keep my heavy bag in her cafe and also guided me towards Tosh.
What we call trekking and adventure is a daily routine for villagers. Clicked while on my way to Tosh
In order to cross the wall, I had to climb this pole. I was nervous but at the same time, I was so excited that I decided to take a selfie instead.
Tosh– I am running short of words as I try to describe its beauty!
The snow-covered mountains in the front, the gray sky with no sunlight to be seen. As if I am in a foreign land where the sun hardly shines. But as the sun gradually set, it painted the sky with orange color as if turning my black and white life into a colorful one.
I stayed in Olive Garden cafe and my evening was well spent here with a localite talking about nearby places to visit. It was through him that I learned about Kheerganga, Nakhthan, Kalga and Pulga village.
“Bhaiji, June- July me bhi aao ek baar. Ye saare pahad jinpe barf dekh rahe ho, sab hare bhare dikhenge. “
Translation– “Visit this place again in the monsoon to witness these snow covered mountains turn into lush greenery.”
“Zarur aaunga !”, I swore to myself.
Even the strong winds and the spine-chilling cold was not able to take me away from the beauty I beheld. I spent hours here with a localite.
View from my room.
Village street.
Sunset dramatically turning the sky into orange color.
While this village looks backward, the young guns here definitely have a good sense of dressing.
Wooden temple.
Intricate Carvings
Olive garden cafe.
9th December–I left Tosh, collected my bag from the cafe in Barshaini, profusely thanking Meenaji for all the help. As a token of respect, I had chai and chowmein at her cafe and left for Kasol.
My last night was spent at Buddha cafe in Kasol. The cafe played psy music and had murals painted all over the walls. After having the supper there, I meandered on the streets at night in the chilling cold. My legs were still in the hangover of trekking. But, what a great time I had!
An evening in Kasol.
It’s a sin to miss “Aaloo Ka Paratha” while being in North.
Buddha Place
Wall art at Buddha Place.
10th December 2015– I got up early in the morning, took a natural hot water bath near Kasol bridge, sat by the riverside and savored my few hours of freedom and solitude. The morning sun rays provided me with warmth and the sound of the Parvati River brought me back to reality every time I was lost in my thoughts. I replayed in my mind, every single moment I spent here. Never did I imagine I’ll land up in a place which is beautiful beyond my imagination, its people so generous and the cafes and market so trippy. It changed me forever!
Ever imagined bathing in a view like this?
I had started this journey as an escape from reality, escape from my own self; but little did I know that I’ll realize the truth of my life! I felt alive as if someone had breathed a new life into a man drowning in the ocean of society’s norm, daily routine, and moroseness. Being away from the noise and other distractions, I found acceptance and grace within. The silence took away all the anxieties and insecurities about life and helped me to be in the present moment. Once again, I was that innocent kid- a devil, an honest guy, a liar, a guy with high hopes and big dreams; dreaming of a fantasy-land where I could escape from all the illusion society had created about happiness and success.
Life gave me a purpose to live! A purpose to create my own path and reach the summit of my life.
Bidding adieu to the mountains, soon I was on my way to Delhi.
Travel - my best teacher 