10 Things that will surprise you when you Visit Dubai

**Guest Post**

Dubai is a city full of surprises. Each year thousands and thousands of tourists visit Dubai to experience this glamorous city and see the marvelous buildings and architecture. Dubai Holidays is on most people’s agenda at least once in their lifetime. It has without a doubt become the entertainment capital of the world.

There are innumerable places to visit in Dubai and it is a city that caters to all age groups. Be it grandparents, parents or kids, everyone has loads of things to do in Dubai. But it is also a city full of surprises. And the list is so long that it is difficult to mention everything here. But I am going to list down ten facts about Dubai that will really surprise you. Want to know what it is? Read on.

10 Things that will surprise you when you visit Dubai:

• Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world: Since its inauguration in 2010, Burj Khalifa still holds the record of being the tallest building in the world. At more than 828 meters and more than 160 floors, it offers a breathtaking view of the entire city. The visitors can go to the observation decks on the 124^th and 125^th floor for a 360-degree view of this magical city, and also take a guided tour to the 148^th The 125^th floor pays a tribute to Arab arts and culture.

• Palm Jumeirah is the world’s largest man-made island: Dubai has always been a city of fascinating architecture. No wonder that they also hold a world record for the first man-made island Palm Jumeirah. Opened in 2001, the tree-shaped Palm Jumeirah is an artificial archipelago famous for its extravagant restaurants, sophisticated apartment towers, and swanky hotels. Palm Jumeirah Monorail is the first monorail in the Middle East that connects it to the mainland.

• ATMs that dispense gold: Yes, you read it right. You can buy anything from a gold coin to a gold bar from The Gold to Go ATM in Dubai Mall. The computer inside the vending machine changes the price based on the real-time market fluctuations. There are three such ATMS in Dubai, two in Burj Khalifa and one in Atlantis Hotel.

• No Income-Tax: Wow! What can be more amazing than the fact that you don’t have to pay Income Tax? Yes, you get your whole salary without any deductions in Dubai. The only tax that you pay is the VAT (Value Added Tax) while buying products. This is one of the biggest reasons for many people to establish their business in Dubai.

• Longest automated Metro Line: Another surprising fact about Dubai is that it has the longest driver-less single metro line. In fact, it made it to the Guinness Book of Records as the longest automated metro line. Currently, the Red and Green lines are operational with another line under construction.

• Police Sports Cars: The Dubai Police owns a fleet of high-end luxury cars such as Lamborghinis, Ferraris, and Bentleys. The fleet also includes Aston Martin, Bugatti, and the likes. The idea is to break down barriers between the police and the public. And the icing on the cake is that most of the expensive cars such as Bentley and Ferrari are driven by women police officers.

• Experience Sand and Snow throughout the year: Probably the only place in the whole world where you can enjoy desert safaris and experience snow any time of the year. Ski Dubai is a snow park with real snow constructed right in the middle of the desert. There is a 85-meter-high mountain and an indoor skiing facility. The park maintains a temperature of -1 to -2 degrees throughout the year and the highlight are the penguins that have been transported all the way from Antarctica.

• Reward for losing weight: Looking for an incentive to lose weight? Well, the Dubai Government awards a family 2 grams of gold for every kilogram lost. This gives you a big motivation to stop making excuses and lose weight.
• No address in Dubai: The residents in Dubai did not have a street address until a few years ago. They used to direct people to places using landmarks. Recently, the government has allotted unique codes for each building to streamline the process of finding an address.

• Biggest theme-based mall in the world: For a real shopping experience, head out to the Ibn Battuta Mall. Named after the renowned traveler Ibn Battuta who traveled the world in 1335, this is the biggest theme-based mall in the world. The mall is divided into six different courts: India, China, Persia, Egypt, Tunisia, and Andalusia, representing the different places he traveled to. Enjoy some lip-smacking food in the restaurants or pamper yourself with new clothes and perfumes in their stores.

 

Tips for Travelers: 

Planning a vacation to Dubai and not sure what to do? The following tips will surely help you:

• The best time to travel is from November to April when the weather is pleasant. All the major tourist attractions in Dubai will be open this time of the year. The months of January and February are especially crowded because of the famous Dubai Shopping Festival and the entire city comes alive. But, since this is the peak season, the hotel rates and airfares are really high.

If you are not looking to travel during peak seasons, you can travel during comparatively off-peak months such as May, September, and October. The crowd is comparatively less, and you will get good bargains in hotels and airfare.

• Do some research about the season you are visiting in so that you can enjoy all the activities
• Process your visa at least one month in advance to avoid last moment delays
• Book hotels and air tickets at least a few months in advance to get the best price
• Ensure you carry your passport, travel insurance, and other important documents
• Carry your international debit and credit cards for purchases. For other expenses, it is better to exchange your local currencies with dirhams at the airport or the malls where you get a good exchange rate
• If shopping for gold in Dubai Gold Souk, compare prices at various stores to get the best deals

Conclusion: No matter when you plan to visit Dubai, there is always something to do. A short trip will not do justice to this delightful city. Plan a long fun trip so that you can explore as many places as possible.

Note: This is a guest post by raynatours

A peek into simplicity and the hardship of rural life

After exploring Mahabaleshwar for 2 days, we found ourselves saturated with the place and decided to return. The long weekend had invited a lot of crowd in the hills and we were so impregnated with the act of travelling that even though we had 2 more days before getting back to the routine, we decided to call it a quit and spend rest of the time at home. But is it so easy to convince the mad heart who has already tasted freedom? One often arrives at a point on the road where he has to choose the course that defines his journey and that is the beauty of travelling! On our way back, our silence conveyed that we were unhappy with the decision. My friend casually suggested that we visit his village which was not too far from Mahabaleshwar. Being raised in a metropolitan city, I’ve only had few opportunities to experience rural life that made me immediately second his idea.

Read: Road trip to Harihareshwar: Misadventures and Ruminations

As we took a detour from the main highway, the vehicles were replaced by the refreshing greens and contours of the hills slicing the horizon. I took deep breaths deliberately, filling the lungs with fresh air, enjoying the momentary freedom and soaking the beauty of the countryside. On the way, my curious eyes spotted a group of people burning crops on firewood. “This is called Hurda party”, my friend replied looking at my inquisitiveness. After toiling hard in the field, the farmers celebrate the good harvest of Jowar by roasting its seed and eating it with garlic/groundnut chutney or sometimes along with jaggery. Later, I learned that this simple dish of farmers is now loved by the urban people so much that it has begun to find its way in restaurants. Also, events are held up at various farms near Pune to celebrate the Hurda party.  The discussion invariably gave rise to my fantasy of living a slow-paced life, unlike the cities. As usual, I found beauty in every aspect of simple living while my friend pointed out the hardships involved in living such a life. He told me how once they had to face a huge loss when vegetable rates had slashed in the market owing to seasonal produce which resulted in more supply than the actual demand. The traders bought the vegetables from the farmers by paying peanuts that did not even meet the cost of labor involved for production. As a result, many farmers decided to not sell the product and left it to decay. He also told me that his village was a drought-stricken area which depends majorly on the ground waters and artificial lakes. Although the government provides subsidies to farmers to build wells/lakes, there are poor farmers who are still not able to avail the facilities and have to face a lot of adversities. It left me thinking for a moment but how could a dreamer weave his dream with logic? The endless green farms and fresh air blowing on my face easily deviated me from the topic. Soon, the concrete roads turned into the dusty lane and few farmers were heading way back home. We had finally made it to the village and as soon as we reached the front gates of my friend’s home I was uninvitingly welcomed by the barks of the dog. Before I go and try to play with him I’m warned that unlike the dogs of the cities, he can’t be easily tamed and loved. The human-animal companionship is mostly based on give and take relationship here unlike in the cities where people adopt an animal for status/pleasure and are well trained.  It was a street dog who resided in the courtyard of the house and was fed well. In return, he guarded the farms and the house. Now, a little cautious of the dog, I entered the house and was warmly welcomed by his family members. I noticed that the courtyard was a mess owing to the renovation work that was going on to convert the old traditional house into a big concrete one. At one end of the courtyard was a temporary hut where the family lived. My friend took me into the house to keep my belongings. It was a small room already filled with the household stuff, waiting to be shifted to the new house and could barely accommodate the family of 5. They were little hesitant if I would be able to adjust but I assured them that I was very comfortable and had no problem at all. With time, their guilt was also absolved as I got familiarized with the conditions. After freshening up and having refreshments, I was given the tour of the new house showing all the rooms and corners in its concrete form. We headed to the roof which was still under construction.  It provided the whole view of the village with a temple in the center and farms on its periphery stretching up to the base of the hills in the far distant.  The sun painted the sky orange in contrast to the green farms, replicating the image of the Indian flag. While my friend and his uncle got busy in monitoring the construction work, I got lost again, immersed in peace and the beauty of the countryside.

Read: Reminiscing old times: Road trip to Alibaug, Kashid, and Murud…

Solshi village lies in the district of Satara. According to the locals, it acquires its name from 16(Sol) shivlingas that lies in the surrounding area of the village.

Dinner was served at around 8 and tough it was a simple food served with bhakri, dal and vegetable, I remember eating it more than the usual. My stomach always has enough space for home cooked delicacies and most of the time it doesn’t even make me regret overeating. Rather, I feel happy and satisfied. Since there wasn’t enough space for me and my friend to sleep in the makeshift hut; we took our bedrolls and slept in the village temple that night.

The next morning, after having breakfast, since my friend got busy doing the household chores, I set out alone for a walk around the village. There were old men sitting under the tree, children playing cricket in the temple courtyard while few passersby stared at me smiling and inquiring about my whereabouts. Walking further towards the farm, I could identify few crops like jowar, grams, onion and tomato which is grown here in abundance. I aimlessly hopped from one farm to other watching farmers going about their day, sat by the well watching children diving and bathing in the well and after feeling tired wondering, found a place under a tree and irresistibly got lulled to sleep by the cool breeze. Later, my friend along with his granny took me around their own farm. Granny plucked the gram crop for me and was delighted to see me feasting on it and enjoying the village life. Upon returning home, we were served scrumptious puranpoli for the lunch post which I retired to bed again. It was all about taking a rest and going with the pace of slow village life.

Read:Living the moment!

Straight from the farm!

We prepared for the ride back home in the evening. The family kept persisting that I should visit them again after the renovation and apologized for all the troubles I had to face. But, how could I explain to them the childhood fantasy of mine whenever I saw the farms and mud houses from the window seat of the train and to have actually experienced all of it here. I was indeed living my fantasy without even going through the harsh reality of living a simple life. A sense of gratitude filled my heart not only because of the experience but also for my own conditioned life that I often took for granted. I hope my smile expressed at least a little bit of what I felt inside as I bade farewell to them heartily. Spending some leisure time in an obscured village made me realize the kind of vacation that I was actually yearning for. The insatiable hunger for exploring new places can sometimes blind you with the delusion of having fun. Sometimes all we need is to slow down and really enjoy the vacation in true sense. I got lucky with this opportunity and was glad to be able to recognize it. It’s not always foolish to listen to the impractical heart after all. It can take you to places you have already visited a thousand times before even actually having arrived there!

 

The Abandoned House

The door to his self was left ajar,
Rusted and cracked,
Beckoning him.

It creaked to happiness as he entered and made way through the dark.

He overlooked through the window of his heart,
Broken to the dreams,
Shattered apart.

The stale air flowed silently
As he made way through the cobwebs of his thoughts,

The wall of resistance had crumbled to the storm.
His childhood voice echoed across the hall,
The tilted painting hanging on a hollow wall.

All the secrets hidden by the paints and plasters lay damped,
downtrodden on the floor,

As he walked into his house,
Once abandoned,
On a silent hill,
By the seashore.

 

‘Tis the season of self-evaluation

To say that 2018 was a roller coaster ride would be such a generic statement to make. When we look back at the past and realize how far we have made it, it always seems to be a roller coaster ride of emotions, challenges, defeats, and victory. However, for me, 2018 was to consciously take a ticket for a crazy ride. Somehow I had already realized that it is going to be a year of persistence and bold decisions. Was this ride worth it? Of course yes, but did it lead me towards success or finding a purpose in life? I know not!

After experimenting with so many solutions in the chemistry lab of life, all I derived was the precipitation of lessons which I would like to carry with me in the years to follow.

Stop. Introspect. Choose.

Reasoning from my point of view after taking advice from others and learning to say “No” to people/ experiences I don’t like helps me to be content with my choices, irrespective of good/bad.

Lost in contemplation. Successfully ditched the new year plans of Goa and escaped to a relatively quiet place- Vengurla Beach, Maharashtra.

Read: Vengurla- The unruffled paradise!

Travel for experiences.

Be it a mountain-top, a beach, or a fort, the sunset remains the same. Don’t stick to a niche; travel for experiences.

The nature lover tries to find beauty in forts and museums. Picture clicked at Nahargarh Fort, Jaipur.

Read: Exploring my interest in arts and history at Mehrangarh Fort

Let Go!

When slogging for 14 hrs. a day took a toll on my health, I decided to call it a quit. But, even difficult is to get rid of the past that leads to over-thinking, procrastination, and fearing the possibilities that may/ may not arise. The more I learn to let go my past, the more I feel detached from these mental habits associated with them. It also helps me to focus on the road that lies ahead.

Most of the things in life are simple.

Now that I have quit my job and have time to observe myself as a third person, I realize that how subconsciously we are entangled into habits that are worthless. And some of them become the reason for restlessness and complicate things to a point from where it is difficult to return. Like always craving for fast food, constantly checking the phone for no good reason, spending a lot of time in the toilet, etc. It feels surprisingly good to be active throughout the day after relying on raw vegetables, fruits, and home cooked food. Keeping the phone away saves a lot of time which can be invested in other useful things. Going quickly through the morning chores helps me abide by the daily routine of exercise and mediation. It’s simple. Really!

Forget everything for a while. Go watch a sunset!

Loneliness is a gift, we fail to admire.

From sleeping like a bear and socializing for rest of the day to sitting in a bedroom trying to utilize the siesta time, being alone made me feel anxious at first but gradually helped me to learn a thing or two on my own without even realizing of the efforts put into it.

Read: A solo trip that changed me forever!

Persistence and patience is the key!

Having not yet figured out what I really want to do with life, I find it wise to win each day and patiently hope for things to fall in place. This is the only way I know to console my heart. Meditation also helps.

Aren’t we all travellers traversing from one experience to another by learning and unlearning things and meeting new people on our way? And in the end, we are all alone making our choices on this journey called life.

Read: Keep Walking…

Stay connected with your inner child.

Whenever I feel discouraged, I look back at my younger self who was an impulsive child, always willing to learn and win. With the time and maturity, I seem to have lost a deeper connection with myself which I continuously try to trace back now. I strongly believe that we had all the qualities as a child that we are now looking for.

Guess who’s the kid here?

Read: An excerpt from my diary: Camping at Shirota Lake

Travel often! Travel smart!

Prove everyone right when they say travelling is escaping from responsibilities. Travel more often! Also, don’ rely completely on humanity while travelling. Racism and bad people exist in society. Be alert and travel smart.

Varkala: Where caucasian foreigners are respected more than the fellow countrymen.

Read: Varkala: Rich Biodiversity, Poor Hospitality

Very close to the tourist destination lies an interesting town/ a village unexplored.

This year I stuck to a formula to explore an alternative place to the famous tourist spot where transport, food, and accommodation wouldn’t be a problem owing to its proximity to a well-known place. My experiences in such places were so good that I’m yet to find the right words to describe those places in my blog.

The sun bids a final goodbye by enchanting the snowy peak with its last few rays! Picture clicked at Bathad village in Himachal, situated at the last motorable road ahead of Gushaini (Tirthan Valley).

Read: Adventure tales of Chamba

Wake up early.

There is nothing called as a sunset person. Stop making excuses and wake up early.

Not seen anything like this before. A surreal sunrise moment at Vattakanal.

Read: Vattakanal: First impressions

Discipline is necessary.

In my quest to finding interest in things I would love to do, I noticed that doing anything repeatedly, however for a small period of time, not only helps to grow interest in the subject but also increases will and focus to do it. And in order to develop such a good habit, discipline is necessary.

Read: Road trip to Harihareshwar: Misadventures and Ruminations

Prayer helps to stay positive.

After reading a countless number of books on effective ways of living, writing and even blogging, there are a few common points in all of them stressing on the power of affirmation, visualization and practicing silence. I always found it difficult to obey the step-by-step rules mentioned in the books. But spending a week in YSS ashram in Ranchi helped me understand that the simple and effective way to achieve this can be prayer. Let’s just say prayer acts as a lubricant applied to the mechanical ways of “10 steps to success…”

A devotee praying at the Pushkar Lake.

Read: The touristy charm of Pushkar

Life is not to be taken too seriously.

Above all, I have learned to make peace with myself. Happiness, sadness, mistakes, struggle are part of all of us. We can’t remain in the same state forever. Can we? All we can do is to sit and observe them sometimes, like a motion picture where we are just a spectator. Only then we’d realize how much we were missing on the simple details, that makes the picture a brilliant cinematic experience. Some of those moments teach us something while many of them don’t make sense to us. And that’s okay!

Take it easy!

Did you jot down the lessons learned in 2018? Do you have a resolution for the next year? Share your views in the comment.

Exploring my interest in arts and history at Mehrangarh Fort

My initial plan before leaving to Pushkar was to meet my cousins in Jaipur and board the bus to Manali. I was hesitant to travel solo across Rajasthan, for its association with forts and museums hardly sparked any interest in me. Being a nature lover, it did not resonate with my idea of travelling. Imagine a schoolboy asked to sacrifice his Sunday for a trip to the museum. How boring! But as a traveller, I often find that happiness lies just around the corner when least expected. This time, my cousin did not want me to run away in the mountains. Instead, he insisted me, or rather should I say, forced me to board a bus to Pushkar. Jodhpur was the second destination of the same tour. After a 5hr long journey on a local bus from Pushkar, one may find his mind commanding to rest but as I arrived at the goStops hostel, I instantly felt rejuvenated. The employee at the reception, being a travel geek himself, ended up sharing his stories while I tried to gather all the information about Jodhpur as if I was to start exploring the city right away! In such a friendly atmosphere of like-minded people, conversations flowed and the bond formed easily with the staff and tourists alike. Lost in sharing the joy of travelling, the night seemed to be young and smiling at us.

The magnificent Mehrangarh Fort stands on a rocky hill, at the height of 400 ft. It was founded by Rao Jodha in 1459.

The last night’s experience paved the way for a morning to look forward to. After entering the fort and obtaining a ticket, I excitingly put the headphones (with a remote given for the audio tour) like a crown, imagining myself as a king who is out on an inspection of the fort. My friend Nico- an Australian fellow whom I met at the hostel- and I decided to explore the city together. As the soft morning sun expanded its rays from the imposing walls of the fort to the ground, I felt terribly small and weak to comprehend my position as a king.

One of the entrances to the fort.

The heavy metal gate with iron spikes on it making intrusion difficult for the enemies.

I immediately shun all my imaginations and pressed the no. 1 button on the remote. The audio guide welcomed me and introduced me to the Rathore dynasty and their glorious years of the past. It instantly teleported me to the age when the kings claimed themselves to be the descendant of God!

The audio tour further guided us to the interiors of the fort. As we marched closer to the courtyard, there were tourists dancing to the tune of the musicians who were playing traditional instruments. Many local visitors found this a good opportunity to gather around Nico and click photos with him.

He must be feeling like a celebrity. Haha!

While the audio guide described the details present in front of me, my mind kept flickering between the present and the imagery of the past. Sometimes, I was a part of the subjects enjoying the celebration in the courtyard; while on the other occasion, I was the king discussing the important strategy with the chiefs in the courtroom or resting in my “larger than life” personal chamber. The vast display of swords adorned with precious stones and ancient inscriptions, daggers, spears, guns, howdahs, etc took me to the battlefield where cavalries charged at the enemies on giant elephants and horses, and where Rathores displayed their strength and valor! I peeked into the lives of queens who traveled in closed palanquins. They were not given much freedom to engage with other men/subjects of the kingdom and lived in a separate quarter with their friends. I looked outside at the tourist crowd from the latticed windows from where the queens observed the ceremonies and royal assemblies taking place in the courtyard while remaining hidden from the public view. The architecture and the strength of the buildings, paintings of Gods from various mythologies, floral carvings on the walls and ceilings, etc piqued my curiosity to learn more about them. It made me appreciate the knowledge of architectures and artists of that time and sympathize with the efforts of laborers. My eyes popped out in awe looking at the bright colors and decorative royal rooms with stained glasses imported from other parts of the world. It was quite evident that mightier than the planning, architecture, and art was the money involved in construction!

Read: Standing through tides and times: Jaigad Fort and Karhateshwar Temple

Palanquin for royal women.

Palanquin for men.

The assembly room for chiefs and other important members.

The Sheesh Mahal or the Mirror Palace.

The bed-chamber of Maharaja Takhat Singh (1843-73) is decorated from ceiling to floor with paintings from Hindu Gods and Goddesses to European ladies. Even the floor is painted like a carpet!

Inside one of the queen’s palaces; notice the colonnade structure and the latticed windows that were designed so that the queen could peek outside at the ongoing affairs of the courtyard.

Antique cradle at the queen’s palace.

Smoking tobacco or opium in Hukka was a symbol of royal stature.

Visiting the Mehrangarh Fort helped me understand the idea of true Royalty which is a combination of wealth, health and knowledge, tradition and devotion, scientific and logical analysis, art and nature; which seems to be missing in our modern culture as it fails to maintain such a perfect balance.

A guard sitting in traditional attire so as to give a glimpse of the past.

Playing music on a traditional instrument called ‘Ravanahatha’

After spending a major part of the day at the fort, I repented at the thought of not touring across Rajasthan. I am grateful to my cousin who helped me unveil my preconceived opinion and explore the places with an open heart. “Never shall such bizarre thought cross my mind again!”, I affirmed mentally.

The fort overlooking the blue city of Jodhpur.

In the growing travel age, where all of us are aware of the wonderful quotes and ideologies of travel, it is here that I realized the true meaning of a traveller. A good traveller is not the one who sticks to a travel niche and keeps ticking off the places from his checklist. A good traveller is an opportunist, who challenges his own perceptions and is ever hungry for new experiences. After all, it is the experience that one relishes about the place and not the place itself. Isn’t it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5HPs2OE1Oo&feature=youtu.be

 

The touristy charm of Pushkar

Ambling through the streets of Pushkar, I try to navigate my way to the hotel. Even the Google map is not helpful enough to guide me through these narrow lanes but that is the last thing to be bothered about as the street is crammed with pilgrims, locals, and tourists alike, and all one has to do is ask for directions. Pushkar is a small temple town in Rajasthan and a prominent pilgrim place for Hindus. It is the month of February when the weather is cold and pleasant and I’m here to seek the blessings of God and indulge in the touristy charm of the place.

The Streets

Walking through the lanes of Pushkar, it’s difficult to not get distracted by the enormous enthusiasm of the place which is evident from its lively streets. The main street, encircling the Lake of Pushkar is the hub of various activities and is a gateway to the majority of the places around Pushkar.

One is always few steps away from the Ghats leading to the Pushkar Lake. The market of Pushkar known for its food, embroidered garments, handicrafts, leather goods, jewelry, etc., is strewn across the whole street while the cafes, hotels, and restaurants announce their way up to the building through large billboards hanging over shops and electric poles. The famous Brahma Temple also resides near the main street.

For those not interested in shopping, the old temples and buildings are most likely to pique one’s curiosity in the history of this old town which finds its place in many Hindu religious scriptures, including thousands of year old epic, Mahabharata. The street also gives a hint of the local lives intermingling with the tourist culture of the town.

The Stay

Out of many options available, I chose to stay in Lotus/Doctor Alone hotel, situated at Sikar Ghat which is cheap and famous amongst backpackers. The staff is courteous and friendly to cater to the needs of the customers and food is satisfactory. It has a courtyard with a low sitting arrangement, colorful murals, paintings of Indian Gods hanging on the walls and overlooks the lake which makes it a great place to chill, eat, smoke up and enjoy the activities at the Ghats as an observer.

Who minds paying Rs. 400 for a setup like this?

Pushkar Lake

The arches and domes stand tall surrounding the Pushkar Lake with the arid Aravalli Hills guarding at the distant. Most of the ghats are painted in white and shines brightly in the afternoon sun, like a pearl in the crown of Pushkar.

Out of the 52 bathing ghats, there are few main ghats where pilgrims generally flock to take a holy dip in the lake. The small and large temples, sadhus preaching a group of foreigners, the desperate money-making pundits, pigeons, dogs, and cows are some of the regular sightings at these Ghats; whereas the other Ghats reflect the serenity of this divine place. However, this may not be true during the famous Pushkar festival held in the month of Oct-Nov, when thousands of pilgrims congregate to take holy bath in the lake.

Staying close to the lake, I made it a point to bathe every morning in the lake and sit on the steps contemplating and soaking in the soft winter sun. In the evening, Arti echoes all over the lake with lights and diyas lit at the ghats and the whole place comes to a standstill for few minutes offering their obeisance to God. The temple bells and chants preside over all the other chaos infatuating me towards the aura of the place even more.

The Temples

Lord Brahma is the primary deity in Pushkar and hence, Brahma Temple is the most revered temple. It is amongst the very few temples in India which are dedicated to Lord Brahma- the Creator and considered as highly sacred amongst all of them. It is generally visited after taking a holy dip in the lake. The other famous temples are Savitri and Papmochini Temple- dedicated to the Goddesses Savitri and Gayatri, the consort of Lord Brahma. Both the temples are situated atop hills. I opted to hike to the Papmochini temple.

On the way to Papmochini Temple.

Papmochini Temple.

As the name suggests, the Deity is said to forgive the sins of a true devotee. Besides, it provides the aerial view of Pushkar and introduces us to the barren landscape of the Aravalli Hill Range.

View from Papmochini Temple.

The Food

Since Pushkar is a holy town, Non-veg and alcohol are strictly prohibited here. Although, there are a variety of vegetarian options available to savor upon, like Indian, Italian, Pizzas, Israeli, Chinese, etc. Owing to the mass tourism, finding a restaurant according to the budget is no big a deal here. The town is so small that one can wander along the streets and come across various food joints. I tried Dal Bati in a local restaurant and also had street foods like Rabdi Malpua, Lassi and Kachori.

Hot bati dipped in ghee, served with dal and churma. Yum!

Also, since Pushkar is famous amongst hipsters, the café culture is strong here and I would highly recommend spending time in a café. They are vibrant, creative and have relaxing vibes. I visited Out Of The Blue Café and tried Falafel and Hummus.

Rich feels at Out Of The Blue Cafe, though the rates are decent enough.

One can admire the traces of history, religion, and culture while indulging in the touristic pleasures of shopping, eating, and leisurely exploring Pushkar which makes it so interesting. While the old streets can remind you of Banaras, the café culture feels similar to that of Mcleodganj/Manali/Kasol and the restaurants with the view of the lake can make you compare it with the settings of Goa. Yet, festivals like ‘Kapda Faad’ Holi and Pushkar Fair are unique and can leave one amused with the energy this small town holds. It is filthy and clean, rustic and colorful, chaotic and peaceful- all at the same time!

Mountain- A drug

Take a hit.

Inhale deep.

Let it kick in.

Let it bring a smile on your face.

And you forget everything.

“Yes, this is life !”

You forget your past and you no more care about the future.

Are you awake or are you tripping?

Pinch yourself.

“No, I am alright”.

Allow the silence to make the noise.

The noise which is frightening, yet so calm.

Yes, it is relaxing but maybe for sometimes.

As the silence deepens, it makes you feel bored and gradually anxious.

Your heart now beating rapidly.

What to do next?

Is this good or bad? Safe or not? Right or wrong?… Don’t know.

Mountain- a drug.

 

Road trip to Harihareshwar: Misadventures and Ruminations

We pay our bill on the roadside stall; pour water on our heads to cool of our minds in the sweltering heat of May. It is the last stretch of our journey to Harihareshwar as we wear our helmets and prepare to reach the destination.

Harihareshwar beach.

We had set out for Harihareshwar beach in the wee hours of the morning. Until now, the trip was a mix of scenic driveways, good food, lots of laughter and dodging several potholes on the road. After 10 o’ clock the sun showed no mercy on us and drained our energy. So we had a brief halt at Kolhad before continuing onwards and sat down by the river Kundalika to wash away the tiredness.

Read: Living the moment!

The old-world charm of Harihareshwar.

“30 km to go! The road is going to become steep and narrower as we ride through the ghats.” I warned my friend on realizing that we were on the last but the most challenging stretch of all. This was my second visit to Harihareshwar and I was as excited as my first visit. The bike raced through the hill and the wide road began to narrow down to a single-lane, serpentine road. Each bend unfolded a fresh view and took us closer to the destination which made us forget about the harsh condition. All of a sudden, the hot air that once felt like a fire melting our faces, now felt like a soothing breeze. The perspiration caused by the agitating humidity began to cool down. The road ahead that looked distorted due to the heat was soon going to lead us to our oasis. I was already imagining the fun that lay ahead. But adventures, as they say, are not something that you can always expect. In my case, it was more of a misadventure this time!

Read: From Guhaghar, with love

Harihareshwar temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is also known as ‘Dakshin Kashi’. It is believed to have a similar spiritual aura as that of Kashi/Banaras and that whoever is not able to visit Kashi can make a pilgrimage to this place.

The hill, seen in the picture is sacred and there is a well-carved path to circumambulate around it. The path starts from the temple premises and ends at the seashore. Look for the designer rocks that have taken various shapes and patterns over the years. There are also idols carved out of those rocks which are still worshipped by the locals.

Almost 10 km before the destination, as we took a sharp right turn, a bus from the opposite direction tried to race past us without compromising on the speed. Since there was not enough space for both the vehicles to cross the narrow road, my friend had to take the bike off road and in the process, we lost our balance. By the time I gained consciousness, the blood was oozing from my right knee and few locals had come to our rescue.  Thankfully, my friend was safe and the people around quickly helped him to pick up the bike. Looking at my injury, they asked me to apply a bandage to stop the bleeding but we did not have the first aid kit. The locals then suggested taking a detour to a nearby hospital and we quickly rushed there. The doctor confirmed that it was not a fracture and the swelling would be healed by a week or so. Although I was relieved at first, the symptoms of swelling and the stiffness felt familiar. Only six months back, I was operated for a ligament tear of my left knee from which I was still recovering. I silently prayed that this shouldn’t be the case again. However, few stitches and the first aid later, the doctor gave me the green card and we finally reached Harihareshwar.

Read: Ganpatipule in pictures

Magical sunset after a hectic day.

We kept brooding on how we could have saved ourselves from the danger and stressed on the importance of carrying the first-aid kit and also wearing the knee and elbow pads as a precautionary measure. The unbearable afternoon sun had also done the trick and in the anticipation to reach the destination faster; my friend raced the throttle a little more than he should; for which he was guilty. I thought of confronting about my injury to mom which was more difficult than sustaining the injury. I know the fear that she hides each time I embark on a new journey and the worries behind her constant reminder of being careful. This time, her fears proved to be true.  As time passed, I learned to pretend normal. I didn’t want the topic to ruin the rest of the day. After all, it didn’t make sense to delve on the past.

This is how we woke up; amidst the rustic houses, tall trees, and the chirping birds. A view from our homestay.

What made sense was to look forward to the long holiday and be grateful for the beauty and tranquility around. We spent the rest of the evening on the beach. It was a full moon day and the beach glittered with silver sands and splashing waves. The atmosphere felt divine, as the wind carried the symphony of the bells ringing from the temple nearby.  The whole beach was left for us. I sought solace lying on the beach, observing the constellations above. And so did my friends. We were lost in our own reverie, hardly conversing amongst each other. Was it because of the misadventure or a long bike ride on an awful summer day? I couldn’t say. It was dark and the moon’s light was only enough to create silhouettes of each other not allowing me to figure out what they were up to. Whatever it was, I liked it this way, as I myself kept fighting with dominating thoughts and emotions.

Read: Adventure tales of Chamba

“Is it just an idiocracy to have come this far without proper planning or is this the price I have to pay for seeking freedom and happiness?”, I wondered.  My thoughts then fickled with the glimpses of my struggle in the closed cabin. The pain of monotony soon outweighed the physical pain. I was instantly grateful for that moment on the beach that helped me live in my own imaginative world. But, deep within I knew even this was momentary. For how long will nature entice me with its charm? I kept looking above as if trying to find a clue. If I’m really afraid of monotony, what if the sky became monotonous one day? Or was it the sheer pain in my knee that made me think so much!  When one is restless from within, it is difficult to find happiness from anywhere else. Perhaps, the answer laid in experiencing what is ahead and being curious rather than rationalizing the thoughts. And so I heaved a sigh and decided to let the time take its own course. For now, I’d like to bask in moon’s light and try to connect the dots (in the sky!). 😉

Tips:

1. Never lose focus from the road and try to hasten even if you have almost arrived at the destination. Always remember that the road trip is like a marathon and not a 100m race. Do not hurry!
2. Always wear helmets, and knee and elbow pads. (this goes for pillion riders as well.)
3. Always keep the first-aid kit handy.

FAQs:

How to reach?

By road: Harihaeshwar is 200 km from Mumbai and generally takes 5-6 hrs by road.

By train: Mangaon is the nearest railway station. One can board a local bus from here or hire a cab. Harihareshwar is approx. 65 km from Mangaon.

By bus: Not sure if there are direct buses to Harihareshwar but a lot of buses ply to Mangaon and from there one can take a bus to Harihareshwar.

Where to stay?

There is no hotel or lodging at Harihareshwar apart from the Harihareshwar Beach Resort. Hence, one needs to book in advance. There is also a Harihareshwar MTDC Resort which needs prior booking. But, there are plenty of homestays around that provides a glimpse of local life here. The place we stayed at was well maintained and charged Rs. 1200/ night for 4 people.

What to eat?

The dhaba opposite to the Harihareshwar beach resort serves freshly cooked, delectable food ( both veg and non-veg). Although I loved the veg thali more, the fish thali is definitely to look out for. Veg thali costs around Rs. 100 while non-veg thali costs Rs. 150.

Binge on the sweets bought from one of the shops outside the temple. Also, try the locally made fruit flavored chocolates.

Places to visit?

Parikrama around the hill is considered sacred and is also a lot of fun. Climb the hill and face the crazy winds as you descend through the steps cut out of the rocks that leads you to the shore. Look out for the natural carvings and patterns on the rocks. Note that it is not advisable to do parikrama during monsoon as the sea is rough.

One can also visit Shrivardhan and Diveagar Beach which is 19 and 37 km from Harihareshwar respectively. Anjarle-Dapoli is another circuit which can be included along with Harihareshwar.

Visiting Kovalam and the backwater of Poovar

Kovalam is a small coastal town which was once a forgotten village of fishermen. Kovalam beach caught the attention amongst hipsters after 70s’ and is now one the most visited places in Kerala. Its proximity to the capital city makes it a much more favorable place to visit. At least in our case, it was true as we had to catch a homebound flight from Trivandrum.

Hawa Beach, Kovalam.

Kovalam beach is divided into three parts by the huge rocks, namely Samudra Beach, Hawa Beach, and the Light House Beach. The first two beaches generally see the activities of fishermen while it is the large crescent-shaped, Light House Beach where the majority of the tourist activities take place. One can still feel the relaxing hippie vibes here as the tourists can be seen surfing, sunbathing and relaxing on the beach/the beachfront restaurants.

Read: Vengurla- The unruffled paradise!

Just a usual evening at the Lighthouse Beach, Kovalam.

The Lighthouse Beach is named after Vizhinjam lighthouse which offers a panoramic view of the town from the top. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit and so we could only satiate our eyes with its view from the beach.

The promenade along the beach is fringed with souvenir shops, attention-grabbing hotels and the restaurants, and ayurvedic massage parlors that tempts one to enjoy everything Kovalam has to offer.

The colorful street in Kovalam.

After the experience of Varkala, the hustle-bustle of Kovalam felt like a respite. Our city instincts had kicked in and we were delighted to have street foods like bhel and pani puri. The hot and humid weather outside made us stay indoors most of the time binging on the TV. But, the spectacular sunsets and visiting the backwater of Poovar made up for the trip. The sunset time was even more special, as I noticed most of the people leaving their other activities aside, to watch the magic in the sky for the last time before the darkness engulfs the light. It radiated the feeling of togetherness and mutual love for nature.

Read: Reminiscing old times: Road trip to Alibaug, Kashid, and Murud…

Visiting Poovar Island:

The boat cruises slowly in the muddy waters, passing through the road bridge overhead. It passes through mangroves and coconut trees flanked on either side of the backwater.

The ducks are carelessly pedaling in the rippled water while the young boys diving in the distance provides a glimpse of the local life. Birds shy away and fly back to its branches as our driver points out towards them. We are cautious for the next time to not make any noise to see fauna in their natural habitat.

Life on the backwater of Poovar.

A vendor selling coconuts on the backwater.

The only satisfactory picture of a bird that my kit lens managed to click.

As the boat enters into the denser foliage, there is a pungent smell of the marshy land. It is dark as the sunlight hardly reach the surface and the green-brown colors can make one build his own Disney world.

Just when I get lost in my imaginative world, the driver tells us that a part of the Anaconda movie was shot here and I wonder about the morbid possibilities of a carnivore creature living in this jungle.

Read: From Guhaghar, with love

The symbolic picture of Kerala. What comes to your mind when you hear/read about Kerala?

As we continue to remain awestruck by the visuals, the boat slowly makes its way towards the Golden Sand Beach where the backwater meets the Sea. It is our pitstop before returning to the starting point.

Golden Sand Beach.

There are several floating restaurants around but we decide to relax and sip coconut water on the beach rather than spending too much and return home completely broke. Riding through the backwaters was my first experience and although it proved to be a costly affair, it kept me on my toes throughout.

Read: Ganpatipule in pictures

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Hari Om (@lotus_in_mud)

FAQs

Where is Kovalam?

Kovalam is 18 km (half an hour ride) from Trivandrum. Cabs and rickshaws are easily available from the main city.

What to expect in Kovalam?

Kovalam is a small beach town with few attractions. Hire a chair on the beach and relax or sit in one of the cool restaurants/ cafes facing the beach. One can also visit the backwaters of Poovar. The stay and food in Kovalam are costly. The rates for stay may depend on the season and the crowd. An A/C room for 3 people costed us Rs. 2500.

Where is Poovar?

Poovar is 15 km from Kovalam. Book a cab or a rickshaw from Kovalam and bargain for the cost of roundtrip beforehand. It is difficult to get transportation from Poovar. We rented a rickshaw for the roundtrip that costed us Rs. 600 for 5 people.

What is the cost of the boat ride in Poovar?

The boat ride is expensive. They charged Rs. 4000 for 5 people for 90mins of the boat ride. But we managed to bargain and bring the price down at Rs.3000.

Varkala: Rich Biodiversity, Poor Hospitality

Of late, Varkala Beach is attracting a lot of attention, promising for being one of the ultimate hippie places in India. When one thinks about a hippie place, he/she expects it to be a carefree and friendly place, to say the least. Varkala has a rich flora and fauna with attractive backwaters, clean beaches and tall coconut trees painting the sky, various kinds of bird and the aquatic life.

The Varkala cliff, lined with the variety of shops and restaurants overlooking the Arabian Sea is one of a kind! I can keep ranting about the aura and the natural beauty of the place but it is only a small part of the bigger picture. Natural beauty doesn’t alone make traveling a good experience. The few instances I encountered during my stay in Varkala changed my perception of the place.

The famous Varkala Beach, also known as the Papanasam Beach.

We had reached Varkala in the wee hours of the morning after relentlessly changing several buses from Kodaikanal and spending a sleepless night in the train. Although we had booked our stay online, the check-in time was after 10. We were exhausted and in no mood to call it an adventure anymore. We desperately needed some sleep and hence started searching for places to stay in Varkala. During the search, we came across one of the Varkala cliff hotels where the owner was least interested to attend to our queries and quoted an unreasonably high price. We tried to bargain but it appeared that the owner was not willing to rent us the room. We did not heed much attention then, as we were too tired to comprehend the situation at 5 am and kept searching for another option. Finally, a kind owner of the Hibiscus Garden Homestay provided us with not only a comfortable stay but also refused to discuss the price until we have proper rest.

Read: From Guhaghar, with love

Hibiscus Garden Homestay.

Highly recommend staying in this homestay.

It was only after another incident occurred on the same evening that we started feeling uncomfortable. We were sitting on a small beach towards the south of the cliff. The sun was not too hot and the occasional breeze accentuated our moods. There were only foreigners on the beach wearing minimal clothes. Some performed yoga, some read books, while some carelessly lay on the sand, bathing in the sun. The view added to the cool vibes of the place.

The alternate shoreline of beaches and cliffs stretch as far as 6 km towards the south of the famous Varkala Beach. The Kappil Beach in the south marks the end of the stretch.

As we sat there soaking the vibes, we were alarmed by the security guards to not take any photos and were also told that the entry on the beach is denied at this time of the day. It was clear that he was addressing us and none of the other Caucasian tourists on the beach. Upon asking the reason for the same, we were told about nuisance created by us (Indians) resulting in raising several complaints by the foreigners and he came to say up to the extent that the foreigners pay for their security. Now we can possibly understand why photography was not allowed but there was no signboard on the beach that said it was a private area to be guarded by the guards who worked in the favour of the foreign tourists.

The so-called private beach in Varkala.

Later that day, we learned from the caretaker of our homestay that there is no private beach and the guards are only appointed to save people from the potential danger as the sea is rough. Since the foreigners are good at swimming, they are generally spared.

Read: Vengurla- The unruffled paradise!

Fishermen wrapping up their work as the sun begins to set.

Spectacular views from the rooftop of a cafe.

After a giving up on quarreling, we quietly moved away from the beach to save our jovial moods for the rest of the evening. But the damage had been done. Few of my friends did not like discrimination. This gave rise to the discussions and debate amongst us as the sun cast its red-orange lights in the backdrop. My brother recollected the early morning incident and linked it with the same issue. I had to agree with them but I still wanted to believe in humanity. I tried to defend my friends on a few points about the orthodox behaviour of us, Indians. I had heard complaints from a few female tourists talking about the awkward stare which makes them feel uneasy.

The staff of the Rock N’ Roll café pretended to be busy every time we called them for placing the order. Even after taking the order, it arrived late despite the handful number of people sitting in the café. Finally, we walked out when a group of foreigners sitting adjacent to our table arrived late, yet got all the special attention, which even we would have loved. Indians, be warned! Do not go to this café, until you want to screw your moods.

But my own beliefs were shattered, the next morning. I had set out for a walk alone and decided to stop by the shack near Edava Beach for breakfast, but the staff denied entry saying that it was only meant for the “Private Customers” who stay in their resort. I had no reason to believe them as it was located separately in the open area; very close to the beach (needless to say, there were only foreigners inside).

Edava Beach.

We felt dejected in our own country land. It felt like a different era when foreign invaders ruled our country. I hope that as much as it welcomes the foreign tourists, it treats everyone equal. I’m sure even many Indians must have had a great time in Varkala. But, I wish the same for all.

The sharp aroma of incense hit my nose, as I walk on the cliff. Also, there is a smell of food and spices, soft noise of plates clattering on the tables of the cafes, music that barely escape the café frontiers to reach the ears and the tiny shops selling souvenirs, glitter in vibrant colors. The constant splashing of the waves at the bottom of the cliff reminds me to look at the infinite spread of blue waters. Serenity pervades the air in Varkala but it is hatred and discrimination that negates the energy.

I do not mean to hurt anyone’s sentiment, neither do I want to demotivate the travellers aspiring to visit Varkala. The place is beautiful, but I could simply not deceive my personal feelings and opinion towards it. The debate, of course, can be endless! Rather than feeling sad/angry about it, we must travel more to such places so that this kind of attitude is changed towards our own people.

FAQs

How to reach?

Trivandrum International Airport is 39 km from Varkala. The nearest railway station is Varkala Sivagiri.

Where to stay?

Highly recommend staying at Hibiscus Garden Homestay. The rooms are spacious, well maintained, have a kitchen facility, a small garden outside to relax and the host is warm and welcoming. I suggest solo travellers stay in a hostel to avoid any kind of mishap.

What to eat?

Check out for the local food eatery away from the beach where generally the locals eat. They serve the authentic local cuisine. A fish plate costs around Rs 100-120.

Varkala is a paradise for seafood lovers. Many restaurants exhibit a variety of seafood for customers to choose themselves and relish the freshly cooked food.

Trattorias Restaurant is my personal favourite. The service is excellent and everything that I tried here was a pleasant surprise to the taste buds. I ended up sitting here most of the time.

Any recommendations?

Rejuvenate yourselves with Ayurvedic therapy as Varkala is a hub for ayurvedic massage, spa, and yoga. Explore Edava Beach and Kappil Beach to the south of Varkala Beach, if you enjoy less crowd and solitude. Check out for the backwaters near Kappil beach which is approx 7 km from Varkala. One can either take a rikshaw to reach Edava/ Kappil Beach or can rent a scooty to explore the nearby places. Renting a scooty can cost up to Rs 300/400. Janardanaswamy temple close to Varkala Beach is a popular temple since it is the oldest temple in Varkala.

Teach Me!

Read many books, but learned nothing.
Learned many lessons, but followed nothing.
Listened to everyone, but understood nothing.

Having a degree, but I am not a learned man.
Earning enough, but I am not a happy man.

Now, finding my way through the dark,
Learning to stitch my own scars.

Trying to keep the hope alive,
Though I am yet to learn how to dive,
in the ocean of happiness.

I accept my bad deeds and all the nuisance I did,
I no more want to run away from it.

So here I am, standing in front of you all naked,
No more ashamed of myself.

Judge me, break me or make me
But above all, TEACH ME!

Blogger Recognition Award

There are days when I look at my previous writings and wonder how in the world did I pen down the idea? As if I’ve pulled out something that now seems almost impossible. Past few days has been of such kind. Days when the world outside the window looks much more interesting than sitting in the dark room trying to find the right words, when a classic Bollywood movie is more interesting to watch with the family again than to stare at the laptop screen, when overeating, sleeping and hanging out with friends are the only priorities in life. But, thanks to Neel who unknowingly helped me break the chain and nominated me for the Blogger Recognition Award. Neel is an avid traveler herself and her blog is a reflection of her conviction towards writing. She likes to experiment with her writing style and willingly takes up challenges like Barathon- where she wrote on the given topic, every alternate day and came up with the posts as beautiful as these-

Namma Bengaluru- Too Used to You!

Six Minutes of Fame

While I’m still finding it difficult to come up with my travel stories, I can certainly talk about how I started blogging. (I am happy to open the word pad again. Yay!!)

How My Blog Started

My first solo trip to Kasol had made a profound impact on me and I knew that life is never going to be the same again. On my return, friends and relatives started taking interest in my travel story. Some found it adventurous; some appreciated me for showing the courage; some found it crazy as for why would anyone like to travel alone, while others thought that I’ve become more of an attention seeker. None of it mattered to me though because I had finally found an escape from the growing hatred towards office life. The year following the solo trip was a golden period of my life. It was the time when I used to talk, read, dream only about traveling. Most of the conversations and meet up with friends generally ended with making plans for the weekend-although many of which never materialized. I had suddenly become more fearless and courageous to do exactly what I liked- TRAVEL. I would work patiently for 5 days and wait for the weekend to pack my bags and set out to explore the places near Mumbai. In order to take up the longer journeys, I had learned to lie confidently and ask for the leaves from the office or in more desperate cases took the unplanned leaves.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Hari Om (@lotus_in_mud)

With traveling to so many places, I began documenting my travel in the form of photo stories on Instagram and gradually developed interest for writing and photography. It helped me strive to look for new stories and have a fresh perspective towards the place having the similar kind of landscape. With the course of time, the will to write more intensified as I started sharing thoughts from the deepest corners of my mind and also tried my hands on writing poems. As much as it came as a shocking revelation to others, it was as shocking to me! Appreciation started pouring in the subtle ways. Some wanted to know how I improved my writing skills while some confirmed secretly whether it was plagiarized. My brother even gifted me a diary to encourage me to keep writing. Though I had begun to realize where this was heading, self-doubt and other logical factors kept me at bay from trying to reach out to the larger audience.

Much like my travels, starting a blog for many reasons was still not planned. But, it was fun to hone my writing skills and try writing a descriptive post. And so I wrote the first post through which I wanted to convey what I couldn’t verbally that how solo travel, for me, was much more than the adventure. Gradually, the article found its way into the mailbox only to be forgotten. Days turned into weeks and gradually a month, until one day while idling in the office, I came across a blog post about how to start blogging. The urge to do something more than the usual job had grown strong by now. The office felt like a pool of mud I was stuck into, desperately wanting to grow and bloom like a lotus. And that is how Lotusinmud was born- out of fear, frustration, hope, and love for traveling.

Advice
Be Honest– Consider blogging as a space to express yourself freely. Try to be as honest as possible. Maybe, this will help to create your own niche and raise your own opinion.

Enjoy the journey– You may come across a lot of rules and techniques to attract readers. Try not to be so hard on them and enjoy the process.

Nominations

I nominate Shoma Abhyankar and Harinda Bama for the award.

The Rules

1. Thank the blogger who nominated you and provide a link to their blog.
2. Write a post to show your award.
3. Give a brief story of how your blog started.
4. Give two pieces of advice to new bloggers.
5. Select 2-3 other bloggers that you want to give this award to.
6. Comment on each blog to let them know you have nominated them and provide the link to the post you created.

Vattakanal: First impressions

“Coaker’s walk, Bryant Park, Kodai lake…” a taxi driver shouted to seek our attention as we alighted from the bus at the Kodaikanal bus depot. We were back from Mannavanur, baffled about our next destination.

A wooden cottage in Vattakanal.

Vattakanal is definitely aware of the idea of a relaxing vacation. Perhaps, due to the large influx of foreign tourists.

Like a kidnapper grabbing the opportunity to abduct the lost child by luring him with a candy, the driver approached us with a pamphlet listing the best places to visit in Kodaikanal. “We are not interested in sightseeing. How much is the fare to Villapati village?” I retorted, using some knowledge acquired from Google, pretending as a regular visitor. “600 Rs. But I suggest you visit Vattakanal first. Both same distance… same fare.” he paused as if hypnotizing us with his words. “Besttt..a place in Kodaikanal!”, he continued, gesturing by bending the thumb and index finger in a circle. “Only foreigners come there. You will enjoy… 100%. Think and tell me.” and walked down the road at the nearby tea stall. The decision was made almost immediately but not without formally consenting to each other.

Had never seen the sky shimmer with so many stars before! My camera even captured the shooting star twice, although I failed to notice it with my naked eyes. (Not posting those pictures here as they are little blurred out.)

Before the deal could be summarized as a win or a loss, we had already passed the check post and entered Vattakanal. As we reached closer, the view opened up to the valley covered in a blanket of mist with the conical top of the peaks visible in distant as though precariously hanging in the air.

First glimpse of Vattakanal

Vattakanal was still getting used to the new day. The few shops by the roadside were closed. To our right were the cottages perched on the hill slope that were visible for few seconds and then would disappear in the shroud of mist.

Cool graffiti.

On the left, Altaf café had just been opened for the visitors. One of the staff was cleaning the main desk while a foreigner sitting in the café was gazing at the peak with a hint of a smile on her face. Our interruption did not disturb her much and she continued to remain in the meditative-like state. My friends approached the staff to inquire about the cottages/homestays, whereas I took out my camera and started clicking another miraculous drama. Gratitude poured out thanking the driver for his honest suggestion, as I remembered his words. Vattakanal indeed is a place one should definitely visit in Kodaikanal!

Dreamy mornings in Vattakanal.

Without a doubt, the best sunrise I’ve ever seen.

On the way to Dolphin’s Nose.

Dolphin’s Nose

Echo Point.

FAQs

How to reach?

Vattakanal is 7kms from the Kodaikanal bus depot. A cab for 5 people costed us INR 600 and it is negotiable. Also, the local buses ply up to Vattkanal which is comparatively very cheap but the frequency is less.

Where to stay?

The price for the cottages starts from INR 400/person. We stayed in the ‘Mountain View Resort’ (beside the Altaf café) costing Rs. 1500 for 5 people. It was the cheapest cottage we could find in Vattakanal.

Where to eat?

Altaf café for the Israeli and Italian cuisine. There is a small shop run by a couple beside the taxi stand that serves South Indian dishes.

Places to visit?

Hike up to Dolphin’s Nose Point which is approx. 500 mt from the Vattakanal taxi stand. 10 mins down the same trail lies the Echo Point. The trail further leads to Vellagavi village, which is a bit strenuous trek of approx. 8kms. Confirm the additional details before trekking here.

Road to Freedom

Wind running through the hair-

Dried like a shrub of the desert,

Face smitten with dust,

Fingers giving in to the breaks and clutch,

Toes paining at each gear shift,

And the series of questions bothering my mind.

I put on the helmet once again,

Wear the gloves to cover the pain,

As I ride through the chaos of my mind.

Wrist speeding up the throttle,

Gear shifted to the highest point,

I make my way through the winding roads,

Chasing the sun-

Peeking through the pine,

Meter’s hand crossing the speed of ninety-nine,

I can hear my heartbeats-

Throbbing like a child,

A drop of tear falling from the eyes,

The adrenaline rushing through my veins,

The bike vibrating with the uncertainty ahead,

Until the body gives up to the pain,

I experience utmost calm,

As I rise above the fear unharmed,

And take a road to FREEDOM!

Celebrating The World Environment Day- Are we?

As we celebrate the World Environment Day globally, it compels me to think how much we have taken things for granted and despite having a good educational background, we are putting our country to shame and degrading the environment at an alarming rate! To add to the misery, the internet is flooded with the articles about traveling as one of the major reasons for the pollution and the questions have been raised about the responsible travel. But rather than prejudicing and playing the blame game, I must confess that even I have contributed to the nuisance of spreading garbage while traveling.

Out of many things that travel has taught me, it has made me reflect on my own habits and be a responsible traveler. Here are few lessons I learned the hard way!

I felt guilty for the first time, during my first solo travel to Kasol. Though the spell bounding views kept me at awe, the ground beneath was laden with chocolate wrappers, plastic bottles, chips packets almost throughout the trail. And I realized that these were the same potential waste I was carrying in my bag. This was enough for me to pledge to not throw them carelessly. What made me even sadder was the heap of garbage besides the pristine Parvati River. It was clear that not only the tourists were at mistake but also many local hotels that must have cleared the huge chunks of waste in this manner. Although I was going to dump my wastes in the dustbin, I knew that these wastes are soon going to make its way in a large heap like this. I immediately concluded that even dumping wastes responsibly is not enough.

The result? I gave up on buying chips packets thereafter and also pledged to carry my own refilling bottle. This saved my money as well.

Moral- We are all aware of the garbage concern but tend to ignore it, maybe because we are habituated and think there are too many things to take into consideration. I remember my childhood days when my family always insisted on carrying a filtered bottle for the long journeys or at least a big portable bottle which could be refilled from safe water sources. Ultimately, it all goes down to habits and the choices we make. We may start from somewhere, however small. Take it one by one. For instance, learn to keep the wrappers in your bag, later think before buying that chips packet, carry your own bottle, etc.

On my trek to Kheerganga, I was talking to the guide about how the place would have looked before the advent of the tourists and his eyes sparkled with joy remembering the old days. “It was truly a heaven!”, he exclaimed. Now, he could have talked on so many things that made the difference. But he immediately pointed out to me the wastes on the trail and said- “The tourists have no sense of the place they are coming to. It is a pilgrim place for us and all they care about is good food, drinks and loud music in a peaceful place like this. Now, you tell me are chips and cold drinks required at such high altitude? But we don’t want to let our hosts down and since you all are our guest, it is our duty to make you’ll happy.”

(No wonder why tourism is banned in Kheerganga. Read the full article here.)

Moral- When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Although we may not help the changing times, we can sure contribute our bit. When traveling in remote places of Himachal, or anywhere for that matter, we must strive to live like locals and savor the local cooked delicacies. This will help maintain the decorum of the place without affecting the local beliefs and culture and also help to curb the plastic pollution.

(To learn more about the practical tips to reduce plastic usage, refer the blog written by Shivya Nath.)

But all these years, I had kept an exception in case of the cigarette butts. I always thought that there’s no way to discard the butts and that it was okay. (I was just being ignorant, actually!) Until I met an Australian guy with whom I traveled throughout Jodhpur and Udaipur. Whenever we smoked a cigarette, he would keep the butt in a separate bag, and I, on the other hand, would toss the cigarette butt on the ground and crush it with the shoe heroically. Never did he feel agitated with my behavior but deep down somewhere I was deeply ashamed of my wrongdoings. Being a foreigner, if he can respect our country and contribute towards cleanliness, then there was no reason for me to not do so! However, I did not give up on my habit completely during that tour (Maybe, because I had not realized the degree of my mistake by then). But I am happy to say that on my following visit to Himachal, every time I smoked, I remembered him and could not help but keep the butts in the side pocket of my bag. (It stunk badly though. Got to stop being so lazy!)

Moral- We must realize that our actions are consciously/subconsciously imitated by others. If we do good, there are people who will learn from this and follow in our footsteps.

The best way we can learn to contribute towards the environment is to express our gratitude towards the places we travel. How wonderful it is to realize that we are still amongst the fortunate few, who have traveled to such exotic places! The places that have now turned into emotions- A happy moment, a childlike glee, a break from the mundane. Such places must find its way into our hearts and I’m sure, this will automatically help us to be more compassionate.

“I care for you, nurture you. Will you not give back the same love to me?”

The Hill Of Ego

But what is it that lies beyond the visible?

Beyond my imagination?

What is it that I am searching for?

Is it worth all the pain?

Will I return again?

What do I want?

Where is my quest towards the unknown leading me?

Will I ever be satisfied?

Will I ever find the answers?

Will I ever be calm and give up on my restlessness?

Restlessness? For what? What am I thinking?

Who am I?

What is the purpose of all this?

Do all these even make sense?

But he had to climb that hill anyway,

To test his patience,
To test his confidence,
To test his beliefs,
To find the answers.

The clouds roared,
winds tried to sway him away,
the lightning struck!

But he somehow managed to climb that hill after sliding and failing a few times,

Only to realize that there was nothing he expected.
Hills had no answer to his questions.

But that day, he conquered the hill of his ego,

And realized that there is no end to the vast mystery and the treacherous hills.

In that gloomy day surrounded by the dark clouds, a strange light shone within him.

The light which guides him to climb higher but at the same time taught him to be humble and patient enough to learn and believe in the process of the universe.

Mannavanur- An offbeat place in Kodaikanal

“Once you visit the place, you will start hating mankind for destroying nature!” my friend exclaimed on asking about Mannavanur, a farming village on the upper hills of Kodaikanal. His words held truth as I witnessed the roads covered in a canopy of pine trees and the dense jungle en route.

Read: Living the moment!

Clicked in a jiffy from the bus. This is Poombarai village which is on the way to Mannavanur. Another interesting place to visit for offbeat travellers.

We had reached Kodaikanal a night before embarking on this journey. We made sure to skip the sightseeing places and rather explore the offbeat places in Kodaikanal. Hence, we spent the night in the hill city and left the place in the early morning.

The vibrant hill city-Kodaikanal.

Over the years, I have learned that the hills are not the place for sight-seeing activities. Instead, I love to explore the offbeat places that provide modest accommodation and food options. This, I think is the best way to experience local culture and cuisine as the hills unfold its vistas in silence.

Mannavanur had all the checklist for an ideal nature lover. As soon as I stepped down the bus, the fresh air of the hills welcomed us. I could notice a cluster of the settlement with terrace farms rolling down the hill slope. A local pointed us towards the homestay. Hand gestures seemed to be a better way of communicating with the locals as they hardly understood Hindi/English.

Cabbage, radish, carrot, and peas are grown in abundance in this region

There were two food stalls in the village, a wine shop and very few options for accommodation. We stayed at the homestay which had just the basic amenities. The rooms were dark and somber. The walls were covered in graffiti of mushrooms, hills and random quotes. It was clear that the place was famous amongst the youth for psychedelic mushrooms.

Few rooms had balconies overlooking the farms and the hills of Western Ghat.

After freshening up, we made our way to the Mannavanur Lake which is approx. a km walk from our homestay. The lake falls under the eco-park and there is a minimal entrance charge. In order to boom tourism, one can notice the fancy bridges, colorful huts, benches and wooden logs to sit and enjoy the natural vistas.

There were signboards signifying the trekking routes. I learned from the forest officials that prior permission is needed for trekking. Horse riding and boating are an added advantage. I could notice many families, presumably from neighboring villages/towns that had come for a one day picnic. I enjoyed the nostalgia as I saw few of them sitting under the shade of a tree, chatting and laughing their heart out as the lunchboxes were opened and the food was being shared.

Mannavanur Lake.

Since we visited the place in February, the lake had shrunk and the forest was less green. I could imagine the place glistening in green colors during monsoon though.

Read: Tosh in monsoon

Nonetheless, we spent a dime’s worth for the food and stay with the view of the charming hills and that made the trip worthwhile.

 

FAQs

How to reach Mannavanur?

Mannavanur is 35 km from Kodaikanal. Cab charges around 1500-2000 INR. There are local buses plying daily on this route but the frequency is less. The first bus leaves from Kodaikanal at around 8 in the morning. The ticket costs below Rs. 50.

Places to visit?

Mannavanur eco-park. One can also visit the Kookal and Poombarai village which is on the way to Mannavanur and within 20 km radius.

Where to stay in Mannavanur?

There are few basic homestays. The locals can guide you to few of them. We booked a room for 3 people at Rs.600. You can also visit the place in the daytime and return back to Kodaikanal.

What to eat?

There are two stalls just at the entrance of the village that cooks local delicacies (both veg and non-veg). It includes varieties of dosa, idli, vada, rice, and sambar. The price starts at INR 50.

Best season to visit?

Monsoon and post-monsoon period, i.e, June-October to witness waterfalls and utmost greenery. However, the weather remains pleasant throughout the year.

Happiness!

After hours of fighting and taking turns to sit by the window, the elder sister finally convinces the little one to sit on her lap and share the view. Look how happy and content they are!

At first, they were just curious about the victory which perhaps didn’t make them as happy as they expected to be. But now, all of a sudden, the enemies became the best friends. Because sharing is the real victory.

Vengurla- The unruffled paradise!

We have our eyes glued to the palm-fringed paddy fields as the driver drives the bus rashly on a narrow, single track road. My lungs are filled with the fresh air and head trying to hang out of the bus window to face the swooshing winds.

With the railway station as beautiful as this, I wonder how magical it would look if there were toy trains running in the Konkan region.

The indefinite waiting at the bus stop…

We are on our way to Vengurla from Kudal- the nearest railway station. The local people on the bus are helping us to know about the nearby places and hotels. They seem to be innocent, true and loving in nature and are happy to see us visit their local area. Time passes quickly and we reach our destination. We are walking towards the beach when we find the (only) beer shop on our way. The shop owner is jovial in nature and asks us to relax and have a beer first before enquiring about anything else. We all hi-fi each other and grab a bottle of beer listening to uncle’s witty jokes and laughing incessantly. The sunny weather too seems to smile with us. The road is laden with coconut trees and other green foliage I am not able to recognize. We are here to spend our new year and the mood just seems right!

Vengurla- lies in the Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra to the north of Goa and is 30kms from the famous Arambol Beach in Goa. It is a horseshoe-shaped beach flanked by hills on both the sides.

We find a guest house named Waman mess situated on the main road with the view of the beach. The rooms are comfortable with all the basic amenities and costs Rs700/night for 5 people. There is a hotel and a bar just a few yards away from our stay which happens to be the only ones in Vengurla. The hotel remains deserted for most of the day. It serves the local Malvan cuisine. The food is so fresh that upon ordering, they start chopping the vegetables and grinding spices right in front of us. So, patience is the key to relish the food here as cooking takes some time.

The afternoon is quiet and the only sound dominating the area is the waves splashing right across the room.

In the evening, we take a stroll to Vengurla Bunder (port). It used to be an important port for trade, set up by the Dutch. Even today, the port comes alive with the activities of fisher folks in the evening. The boats anchored to the piers, fisherman folding nets and the woman selling fresh fishes with the sun setting in the background becomes a pleasant sight of chaos in the otherwise sleepy town.

Vengurla rocks or the Burnt Island!

We spend the New Year night at Sagareshwar Beach which is 3kms from Vengurla. The beach is lit up by the locals with dim lights and laser rays with the hope of few tourists arriving. Chairs and tables have been arranged and the locals are dancing on Marathi music. The drinks have been smuggled from Goa (at dearth cheap rate) and sold here 4 times the actual price. They have fried chicken to serve with the drinks that taste satisfactory. But we don’t mind spending a little extra on the New Year’s Eve and have a good time with locals.

Luxury in a village- A ride in a dazzling rikshaw!

Clearly reflects the jovial nature of the locals here.

Sweet memories! The only picture of us enjoying with the locals.

The night is cold and the beach is now quieter with few people. We are sitting by the bonfire, watching the moon mournfully sliding into the sea. The dawn is about to break! It is time to return to our hotel room.

New year-Just the way I would like it!

FAQs
Where is it?

Vengurla lies in Maharashtra and is 30 km from the Arambol Beach (North Goa).

How to reach?

Kudal is the nearest railway station. For people coming from Mumbai/Pune can board the Goa bound train and get down at Kudal. There are local buses at regular intervals that ply from Kudal to Vengurla. One can also hire a vehicle while being in (North) Goa, visit the place and return on the same day.

Where to stay?

There are few homestays that have come up in this region. Though, I am not aware of the details. I stayed in Vaman Mess which is an MTDC approved guest house and is pretty decent for the price. They charged Rs.700/night for 5 people. (Note that the room is meant for two people or at the most three. We adjusted ourselves in a room by taking extra bedrolls.)

What to eat?

Malvan food. Sea fish is a must try for non-vegans. There are not too many options apart from Malvan cuisine. I vaguely remember that the hotel also served Chinese dishes.

Keep Walking…

Keep walking through the rough, slippery path,
For gradually you will no more be afraid of bruises.

Keep walking on those loose stones,
For gradually you will learn to have a firm hold.

Keep walking,
but take a moment to appreciate the good and bad moments,
For they collectively conspired to bring you here.

Keep walking, for your heart says so.
Keep walking to fulfill the needs of your soul,
For you emit light when you yourself become bright.

But keep walking, my friend.
Keep walking,
For who knows the beautiful dreams you are constructing lies just ahead!